In the program I have 'Gimp', I have with it the plugin GMIC-qt. Two of the filters are Moire' removal and Descreen.
I had a photo the other day where I could not remove the moire and tried something different using noise/spread then denoise.Removed most of it.
After. If there are missing areas of a photo you may beable to get them back. Sometimes easily, sometimes it may take a bit of ingenuity on your part as well.
I find usually a missing eye can be selected & copied from the other opposite eye. It needs to be done as a layer though, as it will need to be flipped. Remember faces are not symetrical. You can get away with it more on other parts of the body as long as you have people standing/sitting straight on.
Buttons, medals etc can be done with the clone brush if there are some already in the photo.
Sometimes one side of a body, usually only a small area (maybe a neck, collar and arm including part of the chest can be selected then copied as a new layer, flipped and put in the place where the other side should be. You can also do this with legs. Before merging down erase any extra away of the new layer as possible (If your new layer is selected only it will be affected).
Where appropriate I have even used photos from the net to fill in missing parts and also the blur tool and smudge.
If you intend to use thes photos online only use creative commons or public domain photos though.
Whenever making a selection to copy an area, always feather it at least by 3 pixels (more depending on the size) to give it a smooth merge. You still may need to use the heal tool to soften the joins.
There are a few ways to pop photos. You will find the best one for you. Try the Exposure slider under colour. Also the shadow & highlights filter. In GMIC there is a special filter to pop shadows, under lights and shadows. Contrast as said will sharpen your photo, as well as making it darker & brighter it also makes the colours more enhanced. I rarely use the saturation filter since I found this out.
Here is a tutorial to make shadows pop
This beginner’s tutorial describes how to make shadows pop in GIMP without that overly cheesy “HDR” look.
Open a photo in GIMP. In this example I’m using a plain ol’ JPEG.
Duplicate the layer and desaturate it.
Invert it.
Set blending mode to “Overlay”, strength 50.
Duplicate
the base layer again, move it to the top and set blending mode to
“Lighten only”.
A side-effect of this lame tone mapping
technique is that high radius halos mighty appear, and the sky could
be darkened in a cheesy way. You would more easily notice halos in
what should be an even blue sky than in grass or rocks. As we only
want to make the shadows pop and we don’t want a fake “HDR look”
cheesy sky, we fix it in this step. This layer’s job is to undo
the effects of this whole technique in the light areas.
Go
back to the black-and-white layer and blur it. How much you blur it
depends on how large your image is and on taste, that’s why I left
this step for last. Try 30 and go from there.
Tutorial by Morgan Hardwood
In GMIC there are many under details. It really depends what you want to sharpen. too. I go for Sharpen [gradient] as I do a lot of smaller photos and it is kinder.
Despeckle should be one of the first things you do if you have lots of white or black spots. There is also 'Descreen' in Gmic if the spots seem to follow a pattern. I have even used it to remove a flyscreen.
In the program I have 'Gimp', I have with it the plugin GMIC-qt. Two of the filters are Moire' removal and Descreen. I had a p...
